Bruno Martinez
The engine of Martinez Diamanti is represented by Bruno Martinez, who operates directly in the world stock exchanges of the sector to select the most beautiful gems that characterize his jewels.
It chooses suppliers carefully, to ensure the legitimacy of the origin of the precious and semiprecious stones, corals and pearls, with an eye to the work ethic of the people and the market.
He personally designs and creates all his creations in his factory in Valenza.
Top quality jewels, original creations, shining fragments of a story that is still being written, step by step, gem by gem, dream by dream.
Bruno Martinez talks about himself…
For me it is difficult to find a date to set as a beginning in my path of gemological growth, as my family has been dedicated to the precious sector for generations.
I found myself living in this fantastic world from an early age, accompanying my father on his business trips when there was no school or in the pre-summer periods, immediately coming into contact with the terminologies of the sector.
Growing up I faced a complex and tough apprenticeship that provided me with the tools to deal with the most particular dynamics, but above all it taught me what you don’t learn in the classroom: that is to grasp the tricks of the trade by observing or asking with humility.
The evolution of gemology
In the 90s the first gemological courses began, but they were still seen as something not essential, as the goods were evaluated and marketed with the parameters of experience and with the rules of supply/demand.
Then the market changed, introducing new treatments and syntheses in the gems. From then on, a serious gemological preparation was required, supported by laboratory instruments that are increasingly complex, from a technical point of view, and extremely complex as regards their use. The sector is still in constant and silent mutation and for this reason I define myself “a student for life”.
Gemology is not the only aspect that has profoundly changed in recent decades. Just think of the introduction of the microscope and mechanical casing supports, which allow us previously unimaginable levels of finishing or, in the production sector, the use of prototyping programs that make technically amazing achievements possible. Yet, evolution has not made us forget the past, but is inextricably linked to it.
In search of the right gems
I was 18 when I first set foot on the Antwerp Diamond Exchange as buyer and selector and from there I expanded my horizons with that of Tel Aviv, traveling to Thailand and Japan several times a year for the search for the “right” gems: every time it is like taking a dip in the past, finding the same dynamics of that time in today’s negotiations.
I smile nostalgically when, interfacing with younger colleagues, new terminologies are used such as “sieve” to identify what I have known as “Tamì” or refer to the measurements of the diamonds with those of the sieve itself, when I use terms like Melè or Polished; but in the end, after all, nothing has really changed, because one’s word and one are enough handshake with the wish of the “Mazal”, which in Hebrew means “luck”, to conclude important negotiations.
What drives my choices
The belief that you need to be fully competent trying to specialize as much as possible in every aspect of the sector, because a prototype designer will not be effective if he is not aware of the needs ofgoldsmith who will assemble the jewel and the latter will have to keep in mind the work ofstone setteras well as the gemologist will have to evaluate the stones or the selector to choose them, otherwise the jewel, in the end, will not turn out to be such.
To date, despite the countless specialization courses I attended and the didactic-cognitive commitment in the use of new technologies, which keep me up to date and in step with the times, my drive is still fueled by a strong curiosity and from a great passion, which, combined with an intrinsic character dynamism, induce me to constantly refine and refine my skills and thus allow me to continue looking at every aspect of the fantastic world of precious with the same eyes of thirty years ago..